This September we traveled for stellar lamb shawarma, juicy smoked meat sandwiches, and plates and plates of tacos. At work, we ate lox and bluefish and whitefish, plus a stellar assortment of favorite dishes for Italian-American week. (Tough gig, but someone’s gotta take a fourth helping of baked ziti!)
With the help of a pressure cooker, risotto becomes an insanely easy and hands-off cooking method. Here, it’s loaded with layer upon layer of the flavors of fall: butternut squash, sage, brown butter, and just a hint of apple and maple syrup to round it out.
What cookbook would you give to a kid in college, or to a new cook to celebrate their first kitchen? Here’s our picks for the books we’d give to anyone looking to learn the basics.
To make the best chicken Parm sandwich, just start with the best chicken Parmesan. Our version uses a buttermilk brine for extra juiciness and flavor. We take the leftovers and pack them into a full-sized loaf of toasted ciabatta, adding some extra sauce and cheese to keep the bread moist before cutting it up into single serving slices. This is a chicken Parm sandwich so good it’s almost worth making the chicken Parm fresh just for the sandwich.
Once you start using fish sauce, it can be tough to stop yourself from tossing it into everything. We polled chefs on some of their favorite uses. Their replies: amp up the flavor of everything from grilled chicken to Southern tomato gravy to…whipped cream?
At Flour + Water in San Francisco, Chef Thomas McNaughton’s cooking achieves this breathtaking balance between refinement and rusticity. That’s the quality of McNaughton’s handsome new book (with Paolo Lucchesi), Flour and Water: Pasta, with beautiful photographs by Eric Wolfinger. It’s a 250-page guide—with a name that reads like a simple equation—to making pasta dough, hand-rolling and machine extruding, shaping, cooking, and building sauces. And while that’s potentially textbook material, McNaughton makes it look artful, like standing on that knife’s edge of refinement and rusticity, which, in fact, skilled pasta-making is.
Last week, McNaughton let photographer Chris Rochelle and me come visit his studio kitchen upstairs from the restaurant. He made one of the recipes from the book, Pumpkin Tortelloni with Sage and Pumpkin Seeds, as a he chatted about the benefits of “00” flour in pasta, boar hunting, and the challenges of making a really good book. We were kind of awed by what we saw, and ultimately tasted. I left feeling like I wanted to get home and pull my pasta machine down from the cupboard. Enjoy the photo journey. (more…)
After the Jewish Day of Atonement (this year it starts at sundown on Friday, October 3rd, and ends the next evening, on Saturday the 4th), breaking the fast with a special Yom Kippur spread is something everyone looks forward to. Noodle kugel, blintzes, and bagels are typical, but with a bit of planning you can give your Yom Kippur celebration a homemade touch. Easy recipes, big portions—you can make everyone feel right at home and nobody will know you haven’t spent the last few days cooking up a feast. (more…)
Renee Erickson pours herself into her four Seattle restaurants like she pours rosé at a dinner party: generously and endlessly, to bring people together, to help them feel relaxed and well-taken-care-of, and to facilitate a good time and good conversation. With her first cookbook,A Boat, a Whale, & a Walrus: Menus and Stories, she intends to help her readers do the same.
Whether it’s stuffed into a sandwich, wrapped around some meat, scattered on top of a salad, or eaten straight from the pan, bacon transforms any meal from humdrum to pretty-much-the-best-thing-ever. You could say that it’s the salty, smoky flavor or the intoxicating smell that keeps us coming back for more, but we prefer to think that it’s the infinite variety of ingredients with which bacon pairs so well. And we’ve got 35 recipes to get you started.
Y’all know The Homesick Texan. You love her blog, her pinto bean and Frito salad, her gooey, cheesy braised beef enchiladas, and her easy, delicious buttermilk bacon-fat flour tortillas. Lisa Fain just knows how to do comfort food right. So I wasn’t surprised that she has a cookbook collection about 250 volumes strong, heavy on the church compilations, the community cookbooks, and old classics.